November 18,2022

Fashion Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus’s Favorite Architecture in France

by David Stewart

Since he hit the scene in 2012, Simon Porte Jacquemus, the 25-year-old wunderkind behind French label Jacquemus, has challenged just about everything we’ve come to expect from a piece of clothing. In his collections, he breaks down the human form in an almost Cubist manner and punches things up with surrealist touches of figuration that feel almost Schiaparellian. Dresses are pieced together like cut-and-pasted wearable collages. A set of navy gloves might become a clever top. At times a sleeve, a pant leg, or the entire upper half of a garment is conspicuously absent. When you look at the ensembles—and particularly if you catch one on a hanger rather than draped on a model’s lanky frame—they bear a greater resemblance to the geometry-driven modernist architecture of the 1960s and 70s than to dresses, pants, and shirts.

Jacquemus’ spring 2014 was named La Grande Motte, after the spacey resort town built by architect Jean Balladur in the 1960s.

Of course, a quick look through his backlog and it’s clear that Jacquemus has a thing for buildings: Practically every collection is shot amid severe, gridded towers or bulbous, podlike dwellings made from repetitions on a circle or sphere. Then there’s his structural spring 2014 collection, which was named for La Grande Motte, a mod resort town in the South of France built by architect Jean Balladur in the 1960s. For the campaign, he shot one if his hallmark, fresh faced cool girls hanging around the town in rigid riffs on tennis whites and ice cream-colored coats.

So after his lingering nez rouge (the inspiration for his most recent collection) finally cleared, we caught up with Jacquemus to get a list of buildings most likely to crop up on his next mood board (or star in a forthcoming fashion showcase cum music video. His thoughts: “My collections are a lot about squares and circles, which you find in the type of architecture I like. I’m attracted to anything pure and simple, geometric shapes and curved lines.” Judging from his list, we’re awaiting a collection hewn from concrete.

jacquemuom

  • David Stewart
  • November 18,2022

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