December 29,2022

Why Sir Paul Smith Wakes Up Happy

by David Stewart

In this installment of his weekly interview series, Cut to the Chaise, AD’s intrepid West Coast editor, Mayer Rus, meets Sir Paul Smith for a cup of tea.

Mayer Rus: I’ve been a big fan of yours for years, even if a lot of your menswear designs are not exactly tailored for the big-boned tastemaker, shall we say. Paul Smith: That jacket you’re wearing fits very nicely. I’m pleased to see it again.

MR: I was wondering if you’d noticed. It’s about 15 years old, but I still love it. When Catherine Deneuve went to Yves Saint Laurent shows, she always pulled out some fabulous YSL getup. So I thought it only appropriate to dress myself in Paul Smith finery for our chat. PS: Very thoughtful.

MR: I should say mazel tov on your 15th anniversary collection for the Rug Company. How did the collaboration get started? PS: I really didn’t want to do rugs and I’d said no to others, but [Rug Company founder] Chris [Sharp] persuaded me. He’s a beast.

MR: A sexy beast. How did he sway you? PS: I was in my shop in Notting Hill, where I used to work one day a week. Chris was getting a bespoke suit fitted and introduced himself. He told me about what he does, and I was impressed by the quality of the product—hand-knotted, hand-dyed, and all that. There are so many rugs that are quite nice-looking but there’s no quality about them.

MR: How did you find the design process? PS: It felt like a natural progression from my day job. When you’re doing intarsia knitwear, you’re used to playing with yarns and seeing color and pattern possibilities. I think I drove the dye masters in Nepal mad. One poor man spent weeks working out the 55 colors in the Oriental Birds design, which is something very special. It’s a move on from the really geometric work we’ve done with the Rug Company in the past. I think it’s the right time to bring figurative pattern back into rugs, and I’ve always been inspired by the stately old English homes that have a feel of chinoiserie.

MR: Gorgeous. But I still love the geometrics, like Carnival, which reminds me of a Walead Beshty photograph. PS: I developed that pattern by layering strips of colored tissue paper. I’ve always played with stripes, so it was obvious that the first thing I did for the Rug Company 15 years ago was a classic Paul Smith multi-stripe. In the new collection, I play with stripes seen through prisms.

MR: How would you describe the spirit of the designs? PS: I think they’re happy rugs. They’re good conversation pieces, like pieces of art on the floor.

MR: You seem like a happy fellow yourself. PS: What can I say? I love life. I’m blessed with getting up every day and feeling positive. I still have a great passion for what I do.

MR: I could use a little of whatever you’re taking, but that’s between me and my psychopharmacologist. What else have you been working on? PS: Last year I designed a new version of the classic Anglepoise lamp that every young student in England has. That was fun. I’ve also done a collaboration with Leica on a limited-edition camera. It sold out in eight days. I’m an amateur photographer, and I remember that my dad always wanted a Leica, so that project was quite rewarding.

MR: I imagine it’s no accident that many of your projects have a personal connection. PS: I try to do things that have a real sincerity and truth about them. I recently did a bespoke Land Rover Defender . I drive a Defender. To put your name on a car that you have no affection for is not interesting.

A custom Land Rover Defender designed by Sir Paul Smith.

MR: Do you know that your pink emporium on Melrose Avenue [in Los Angeles] is something of a local landmark? PS: Yes! It’s heavily Instagrammed. One day a person showed up with a couch to get their photo taken. We’ve also seen pictures of people posing in front of the shop nude.

MR: Whose idea was it to paint the exterior entirely in pink? PS: That was my idea. We design all of our stores in-house. The building was a framemakers shop with a funny roof. Since no one walks in L.A., we decided to make the store a landmark for motorists. We turned it into a simple box, like a shoebox, and painted it in this delicious, Luis Barragán pink.

MR: My place in New York is close to your little shop on lower Fifth Avenue. I’ve always loved the vibe there. PS: Yes, I like that one very much as well. I remember when we decided to keep the shop open in the days following 9/11. There was a steady stream of neighborhood people coming in just for a cuddle or a hug. The mahogany is so homey that you get inside and you feel safe.

MR: Do you enjoy coming to L.A.? This place is overrun with Brits, so it can’t feel too foreign. PS: As a man who experienced the ’60s, I grew up with a romantic notion of L.A. as the land of Joni Mitchell, Ladies of the Canyon, and all that. I also loved the sparkly bits, Hollywood, Nudie Cohn, who was a brilliant costume designer. He did Elvis, John Wayne, Elton John. That seemed like pure L.A.

MR: When did you first come here? PS: 1978, I think. We came to New York a few years earlier. Back then, my wife and I would show up in New York and turn nocturnal for a few weeks. We practically lived at Studio 54. But I can’t take any credit for that. My wife would wear her fabulous Yves Saint Laurent red fox jacket and flash her lovely smile, and we always got in.

MR: Sounds very glamorous—and a lot more enjoyable than talking about rugs with me. PS: I’m having fun. Aren’t you?

  • David Stewart
  • December 29,2022

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